Breaking Into A City Fort - Sion Hillock Fort 2015

I’d like to bifurcate forts into two kinds of places based on where they are located, either a city fort that’s located within the lifeline of a city like Mahim Fort, Wadala Fort, Bandra Fort and also Sion Fort. And Forts like Lohagad, Shivneri, Peb and others that are on hill tops and away from cities either near forests or villages. Sion Fort being a city fort has a view of buildings, offices and streets. It was located on a hill, and I was told by many that it's not really even a fort (Which, I’ll beg to differ with.) it's just a big garden. I still did decide, to make time on a weekday afternoon (Oh, the heat. Evenings and early mornings I guess are better times to go at.). Also, this was a solo trip I decided to do, because it was really spontaneous.

I first took a cab to the base point of the fort. There's a street vendor lemonade guy right at the entrance of the fort, that makes really nice chilled lemonade for 5 bucks a glass. The fort/park timings are usually from 6:30 to 12:30 in the mornings and 4:30 to 8:30 or so in the evenings. I was there at 11:30, and to my surprise the gates were closed. I was so bugged and pissed off, and wanted to hurt someone. But the lemonade guy told me how there are new guards who mess around and close the gates very early and open it late and don’t take care of the place as well. He told me if i’d still like to go I could climb up the wall and jump the gate and go (How exciting!). He mentioned how there a lot of students and kids who break in and play and study in the park and around the fort. I realised how this was my calling to break into forts and live the thug life. I soon began to lift myself and climb  the wall at the side of the gate. Soon I was in, breaking into a fort for the first time ever. I climbed the stairs that took me to the larger entrance and the park. It was a very well maintained park with good tracks and seating arrangements. I saw a lot of youngsters studying for exams and kids running around. There was also a lot of birds chirping and squirrels running around. I soon began to climb towards the fort. There is huge entrance like structure at a height that you’d see stairs guiding towards. Also, there is a guide down from the top for during rains for a waterfall to be formed and water to stream downwards. I climbed the stairs spent some time at the entrance, which was windy and bliss.

Soon, I could see the fort, from a distance as I walked towards it. The fort was built under the regime of the English East India Company, between 1669 and 1677, atop a conical hillock when Gerard Aungier was the Governor of Bombay. It was notified in 1925 as a Grade I Heritage structure.When it was built, the fort marked the boundary between British-held Parel island and the Portuguese held Salsette Island that lay to the north across the creek. The hillock is situated 500 metres from the Sion railway station. At the base of the hill is the Mumbai Circle office of the Archaeological Survey of India, and a garden – the Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru Udyan. There is a lot of cement and other attempts to try and help the fort to survive, as it looks to be depleting. You can see a lot of Mumbai from the height. And the fort is really beautiful as it has its old and lost vintage feeling about it. It has a lot of rooms, and entrances. It looks mighty from the bottom and has various openings for cannons and attacks to be done from.

It was a great solo trip to do alone. I think I should backpack and head out myself more often. It surely is a more self reflecting and beautiful experience and a change from groups and heading out with fellow travellers. I think the Sion Fort, may not have the charm of a village or a hill top fort. But surely is well kept and has an essence and life of its own. It is one of the most loved and adored forts of Mumbai. Yet there are a lot of people that still do not know about the fort. Its a shame that there are such beautiful historical figures right next to us and we still do not take out the time or make the effort to go visit them or consider it to be cool.

Pictures of the Fort (Sion Hillock Fort 2015):

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.893067357423710.1073741836.855590067838106&type=1

 

This is Mr. Happy (Or you can call me Al) signing off, until next time.
Have a great day, and an adventurous weekend! :)                        

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Alvin Anthony

 

A Landscape Of The Old & Forgotten - Bassein Fort 2015

It was a sunny weekday afternoon, and I was wrapped up with work like every other day. I then began to look at options that I could bagpack to in quick time, in and around Mumbai. It’s hard sometimes to keep up with the weekly “Go to a new place” routine, when your work schedule doesn’t permit you to travel too far or invest too much time (Note to self: Need to travel full time, to keep up with this.) But then again, If I don’t get out and travel I’d probably feel gloomy for the entire week ahead, so not doing it was really not an option.

So Bassein Fort (Vasai Fort) is a fort that I have heard a whole lot about since my childhood, but have never visited or been to. I have heard stories about how big and mighty it use to be and is, about the churches and sea facing walls, the Portuguese and their mighty rein during the historical times and of the founding and building of the fort. Since this wasn’t that far me in terms of distance and I could cover most of it in nearly half a day (As per what Sheldon said), I decided to pack my bags one weekday and go. Me and Sheldon head out to explore and cover the Vasai Fort, one of the most unvalued and tucked away Forts of Maharashtra (And oh so beautiful.).

If I often wake up early, especially If I'm really excited to head out trekking or have work to do. However because of working late the previous night, I kinda met Sheldon an hour later than what we had planned (Sorry man!). And during summers, since the heat picks up really quickly an hour is really expensive to lose on. Luckily we did reach there soon, after taking a fast train. We first took a rickshaw midway and then changed rickshaws again. The rickshaw driver soon left us at the entrance at the fort, as to my luck and since Sheldon had been to the fort before he knew his way around and we needed to do next. We soon began to walk deep inside the green bushes and forest like paths taking us deeper into the fort. There were ruins all around us, and birds, trees and a feeling of being close to history and the past. We walked closer to the shore, as we came across large doors and damaged towers. Some say the weather got to it, others say with time the walls began to perish. However, it did look like it was depleting. We soon reached the shore (Oh, going to any kind of water body during the summer is bliss!). We could see boats, crabs and fishes all around. I even picked up a small pot I found on the shore. We were then told that we can’t take pictures. That’s right a beautiful sea view and you can’t even take pictures because of security reasons yes (Merchant trading rules). We were a little bummed out, but I still did manage to sneak around and take a few pictures anyway (Such a criminal I am nah? I know.).

We also saw a small Hanuman temple, it's tiny and you wont miss it on your way to the shore. It was closed when we met. But it seemed beautiful right in the middle of the forest and fort to find a temple. We then climbed up a small path, and could see the sea view from the high facing fort walls. We continued to trail around on the walls. Then we climbed up to what seemed to be a watch tower or bell tower of sorts. It was beautiful carved. And I believe the Archaeology Preservation Community are trying and doing a great job by restructuring and cementing the walls (Trying too hard at some places, but it's surely give and take. And I am happy to see we are trying to preserve and safeguard these places.). We spotted a few love birds around (Couples, yes) whom Sheldon did try to scare away. But we just pretended that they weren’t there and kept exploring. We soon started discovering the various churches (There are 7 apparently in the fort.)

According to Historian Joseph Gerson Da Cunha, during this time, Bassein and its surrounding areas appeared to have been ruled by the Chalukya dynasty of Karnataka. Until the 11th century, several Arabian geographers had mentioned references to towns nearby Bassein, like Thana and Sopara, but no references had been made to Bassein. Bassein was later ruled by the Silhara dynasty of Konkan, and eventually passed to the Yadavas of Devagiri, before being conquered by the Muslim rulers of Gujarat. The Treaty of Bassein was signed by Sultan Bahadur of Gujarat and the Kingdom of Portugal on 23 December 1534 while on board the galleon São Mateus. Based on the terms of the agreement, the Portuguese Empire gained control of the city of Bassein, as well as its territories, islands, and seas. At the time, the cession of Mumbai (or Bombay) was of minor importance - but retroactively it gained a crucial importance when the place passed from the Portuguese to the English in 1661 as part of the dowry of Catherine of Braganza, and became a major trade center - making this the treaty's most important long-range result.

We saw a chimney tower, that was used for cooking a couple of water storage spots. And also there was another temple (This one was open!) that I stepped into quickly, explore and took some blessings from. We soon met a few locals climbing trees and grabbing some mangoes, they were kind enough to give me two, and tell us a bit about the fort and about themselves and their village (The Vasai Village). He happened to live close to my place earlier (Mt. Mary’s) when he was a kid (Raju). He told us even a day wasn’t enough to see all of the fort. That’s when I said my goodbyes and got really anxious to cover as much of the fort as i could. We soon saw another Church that was left in ruins that we were told Sunday masses still happened at (A Jesuit church, could say so with the IHS logo at the front and because I was schooled at a Jesuit school of St. Stanislaus). We explored (I lied down) the church for a bit. Was very beautiful and peaceful. Was very well crafted. We then explored the compounds and could see graves of various soldiers, and other people around the church. I met a really adorable doggy too, who was hurt and been taken care of by the villagers, I could see his wounds were being medicated by them. We soon head towards the last church on our path.

Sheldon’s trip was made. As I have mentioned on my previous posts, the man loves birds and is always looking around to click and see a new bird on his trips. Guess who we met? A Kingfisher. Yes a beautiful, peaceful calm and colorful Kingfisher. He sat down all quiet, all ready to be taken pictures off. We looked at his beautiful wings and eyes, it was surely a treat. We then explored then next church it had a huge compound and well crafted interiors. I never felt like leaving, even for a single moment, but we had too so that we could come again and relish the beautiful fort and all its might. Its huge, it keeps going on and on. Raju was right, it is a magical fort that is long forgotten by many, yet for those who have visited it will always hold a special place of importance in their lives.

The trip then came to an end. Its good to do trips and alone, and with 2 or 3 people sometimes. Exploring with Sheldon was fun like always. Enjoying conversations, and sharing travelling experiences. (And me bugging him cause I wanted to go and see more places, or spend more time at places.) Can’t wait for the next trip. Surely am looking forward to it.

Pictures of the Fort & Temple (Bassein Fort 2015) :

https://www.facebook.com/thehappygetaway/timeline/story?ut=43&wstart=0&wend=1433141999&hash=-8815666137905326921&pagefilter=3

This is Mr. Happy (Or you can call me Al) signing off, until next time.

Have a great day, and an adventurous weekend! :)                        

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Alvin Anthony

A Green & Unsettling Morning - Maharashtra Nature Park & Mahim Fort 2015

It’s not quite often that you're told that there’s no point of visiting a Fort, because it's been taken over by slum dwellers and localities. Cause it’s dirty, locked up and damaged, you’re asked not to waste your time or even bother dropping by. But I never like just “listening” to things, and treating them like experiences. So I locked on a day the 3rd of May to do a trip to Mahim fort (Nearly just 15 or so minutes away from my place) to see for myself, if it’s really true what people say and to have an experience of something so upsetting myself.

Also, after my recent visit to Kaneri Caves, and the nature park my sudden interest for visiting nature hotspots and reserves, has suddenly peaked. So I decided to pool my Fort visit with dropping by at Maharashtra Nature Park (Best decision ever!) close to Mahim and Dharavi. So I called Sheldon told him, “Let’s go, broo.” And like everyone else he didn’t seem interested or pro the idea of volunteering to come to Mahim Fort. He was all in for the park though. (But don’t worry, I made him come around coming to both places. Haha!). It was a sunny Sunday morning, it started off with my taking a rickshaw and heading to the park. The minute I got out, I see this really adorable dog, making faces at me who then I hug and pet. Later I entered, and soon Sheldon joined me, we payed the gate pass entry fee (Rs. 20 or so.) and were then inside the vicinity of the green long forgotten reserves of nature.

The minute we entered, we first found a squirrel nibbling on a thread. When we turned our eyes up we saw a beautiful parrot hiding away in the leaves. It was bliss, the feeling like being in a jungle, even though you're in a city. The peace, the hot summer breeze, the chirping of birds and the blue skies. It is quite unfortunate, that people don’t really appreciate nature and its beauty as much anymore. I was really disappointed, that even though I live so close to the park, this was my first visit, and that it took me a lot of looking up to do, to be able to know about the park. Its an amazing place for bird watching, morning walks, meditation, butterfly watching and just cutting off from the fast life and reminiscing the green pure world. We kept following the trail and ended up completing the walk through the park the other way round (This is maybe, why they should start giving us maps at the start I guess.) We walked through the short and narrow path, explored through various plantation patches, and saw a lot of woman and other workers cleaning, and maintaining the park, which was comforting to see. As you walk towards the end of the park, you’ll see a huge banyan tree and it merging into a small open locality of sorts (Quite, dirty and unclean the last patch.) that will make you a little sad, cause you wouldn’t really want the beautiful protected natural patch to end. The park off lays the Mithi River, which is quite dirty and not well kept. We were able to walk aside the river as one of its paths lays directly aside it. It was good sharing conversations, looking for birds and butterflies.

Soon we reached the end of the park. We stepped into the library for a bit, where so old books related to nature, environment and the wild life. There is also an art gallery, that has exhibitions put up on a monthly or so bases (Mention in local newspaper listings, usually as per the authorities there.) There is also an open space with steps, a stage and plants where a environment themed poetry session was on when we were there. It seemed like a great place to hold small sessions and activities. The authorities told us that it can be taken up for show and events related to environment and nature. (Surely gonna make a note of this, you should too!) It was a nice visit to the park, they usually open up at 7amish on the weekends, which I’d suggest will be the best time to visit the park and take photographs too, if you like too. Sheldon, loves watching and clicking birds, so he was a little let down (Actually a lot more than little.) that we just kept seeing crows, and didn’t catch glimpses of other birds. But on a whole, I felt it was a lovely morning.

We soon done with the park and head out to the fort. After not a lot of convincing Sheldon agreed to come show me where the fort was too. We first cabbed it out to the bridge and then went to the small beach like opening that Mahim offers towards Mahim Creek. (Mumbai being a mixture of 7 Islands, this beach and Creek have a lot of significance for how Mumbai came up and together in the early days.). Your soul will not wither away, it will wander aimslessly seeking happiness and peace all day.In 1516, Portuguese officer Dom Joao de Monoy step foot in Mahim Creek and conquert the fort. The fort was a site of frequent turmoil between the Portuguese and the Ali Shah, before the island of Mahim was taken away from Bahadur Shah of Gujarat by the Portuguese in 1534. In 1661, the Portuguese offered the island of Mahim as dowry to Charles II of England. It was later strengthened by Sir Thomas Grantham and became a strategic defense tower against possible Portuguese and Maratha attacks. According to older records, the fort had 100 soldiers and 30 cannons at that time.

You’d think a Fort with history, culture and some amount of significance, will be taken care off and be kept well. But the insides of me hurt and cried. Cause it was dirty (filthy) and not cared about. If you like Forts, you’ll wonder why people don’t care. I understand people face problems, and at times this is the way out. But it's just upsetting to see the way it's maintained and not even cared about. The closer you walk to the fort you’ll smell feces and garbage. You’ll see people walking around doing their chores, kids playing cricket (which is fine!) and you’ll find clothes hanging to dry everywhere. The entrance is blocked with a huge ladder and the dwellings of people on both levels of the fort. No, you won’t even be able to enter. The lady there told me that people live all across the fort there is a thin staircase to climb during low tide, but the people won't let you go see the fort. The entire, fort has now basically become a colony where people reside. I am all for poverty, finding your space and making do, but at the cost of a historical fort being tucked away and hidden. I am not sure. A lot of people will say “I told you so.” But for me the problem here is deeper, I know. You know. But what can we do? Write letters? Try talking to these people? Try doing something ourselves? Well I don’t know the next step. But I promise you I will get back to this in time, and make sure that something is done at least from my end to change the present situation. Even if it is in a little way. Cause I don’t like our country being looked down at, but because of instances like these I see why we give people an opportunity to look down at us, and for us to look down at ourselves. I am sure, there should and will be a better alternative to this. You’ll find a bamboo loading and moving area at the beach near the fort, which is still okay cause it doesn’t dirupt the fort directly like the people there do.

So a solo, or two man trip is always fun (Thanks, Sheldon.). It was nice to head out to the park and fort. Have a beautiful and bitter taste of life and its challenges. And realise that knowing isn’t good enough, you need to go out there feel, experience and do  your part. Hoping to do more short halt trips and exploration escapades in the future.

Pictures of the Fort & Park (Maharashtra Nature Park & Mahim Fort 2015) :

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.885080161555763.1073741834.855590067838106&type=1

This is Mr. Happy Captain (Or you can call me Al) signing off, until next time.

Have a great day, and an adventurous weekend! :)                                                                                                                                                 

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Alvin Anthony

  

A Beautiful Cave With A Peaceful Heart - Kanheri Caves 2015

It’s good at times to just pack your bags call a few people you love and head out exploring and visiting new or long lost places. Kicking back your feet, doing things spontaneously not having a schedule, and just having places in mind that you want to catch glimpses off. So this was one of my first of such kind of trips, backpacking to the Kanheri Caves in Borivali, a place I had visited at an early age as a child (And, I really did not remember much off.) with a few good friends that made the trip even more memorable. A short yet memorable trip was about to get underway.

It started off with me calling Sheldon, and saying “You’re free, I’m free, lets do this.” We soon spoke to Dua and Jean, and gradually the next morning we were catching a train from Bandra station and heading out to Borivali. Me and Dua enjoyed some cold lassi, idli’s and morning vada's at a few stalls close to the station as we waited for Jean. As soon as she arrived we, caught a rickshaw and head towards the park. (You can usually take a bus too, it’s pretty close to the Borivali East station, and right on the highway if you're travelling by road.). We reached the park and soon began our long walk towards the caves. The weather was pleasant, you can see others walking, jogging and reminiscing the beautiful morning and nature too. Cycling around (Renting them) is a good option too, unless you have people who do not cycle, or wish to learn to cycle in your group then you will need to walk.

So after a long walk of conversations, jokes and enjoying cold cucumbers we had finally reached the base point of the caves. I have been to a few Buddhist caves in the recent times, and they all have this beautiful feeling of peace, harmony and beauty in them. You’d feel like you’ve finally gotten home after all these years. There are numerous amount of small caves you can explore there once you enter. You’ll see a lot of trees, monkeys and remains from the olden days. We saw two snake too! (If you’re lucky/ during the monsoons) The caves are quite well maintained and taken care off. These caves are as old as from the first century BCE to the 10th century CE. Around a 109 caves are carved here out of basalt. All caves have a stone plinth for a surface. A huge congregation hall with huge stone pillars contains the well crafted and beautiful statue, the Buddhist shrine. Some of the caves were use for living, studying and meditating (Vihara’s). The larger caves are the ones we're halls used for congregational worship (Chaitya’s). Avalokiteshwara are the most different figure. The large number of viharas demonstrates the well organized establishment of Buddhist monks.

This Cave was also connected with many trade centers, such as the ports of Sopara, Kalyan, Nasik, Paithan and Ujjain. Kanheri was a University center by the time the area was under the rule of the Maurayan and Kushan empires. There are about 34 unfinished paintings of Buddha within the Caves. Nearly 51 legible inscriptions and 26 epigraphs (Cave 90) are found at Kanheri, which is very beautiful to see. I was really put to ease by the architecture and work put into it by the monks, surely historical. Dua was mentioning how it is a bliss to visit these caves during the monsoons, as there a lot of waterfalls and small streams that flow across the park, and the weather also is bliss. (Must go again!). There are also various bird and butterfly watching spots (Clubs too) across the park that one can visit or spend time at to enjoy a little bit of nature.

We head back after exploring. We took a bus that dropped us at a central point. We then, by feet climbed up stairs that a lady told us can help us see all of Mumbai, yes just 100 steps and you can see all of Mumbai (Note to self: never believe random stranger aunties, or ask them where steps lead too.). We climbed up to see nothing, then head back and saw Deers (Many kinds), Vulchers and Peacocks. They were beautiful to see, and touch and be with up close. We even fed this really beautiful looking deer a banana that Sheldon was carrying with him. Was really nice to see them all chill at the shade of the tree, trying to enjoy the warm summer. We soon then later grabbed a bite and head back. Cause it was time to goo home.

It was a nice experience this, not going with a group running around having a schedule. It was nice to just spend really long hours talking at a place, fooling around, being at peace and just being together. Its sad to see that even though the cave is so close to the city, and to our lifeline (Unlike the other far off places I usually visit) there is not as much importance given to this place. Yes people do visit now and then, and you’d see it buzzing with locals and nature/history lovers. However, I really feel this place should be adored for how peaceful, beautiful and home like it is. I really hope to do more spontanious trips, and local trips in the future. And learn more about important and significant places right around the corner and backyard. Hope to do more trips and getaways with these guys too. (Hi5! Love you guys.)

Pictures of the Caves (Kanheri Caves  2015) :

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.880508555346257.1073741833.855590067838106&type=1

This is Mr. Happy (Or you can call me Alvin) signing off, until next time.

Have a great day, and an adventurous weekend! :)                                                                                     

                                                                            

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Alvin Anthony